Surcoat
A surcoat, or surcote, was an outer garment commonly worn in the Middle Ages by men. About 100 years later, women started to wear surcoats.[1] It can either mean a coat worn over other garments or the outer garment commonly worn over armour. The name comes from the French meaning "over the cotta", a long, wide coat reaching down to the feet without sleeves.[2]
Starting about the 12th century, knights wore long and flowing surcoats over their armour.[3] They would often show the coat of arms of the wearer. A knight's surcoat reached almost to the ankles.[3] It had slits (cuts) in the bottom front and back so a wearer could sit. It also had no sleeves.[3] One purpose for the surcoat was to protect armour from the rain.[3] Another use was during the Crusades to keep the armour cooler in the sun.[3]
By the middle of the 14th century the long surcoat was replaced with the "Jupon" (or "Gipon"). This was a much shorter garment, which was often padded for extra protection.[4] Once suits of plate (solid) armour became common, the surcoat was no longer used.
Surcoat Media
The classic knight's surcoat is on the left; the knight on the right has a different style, possibly a jupon
Saint Stephen, King of Hungary with a jupon bearing his arms, white and red stripes. Image from the Hungarian Illuminated Chronicle.
Les Très Riches Heures de Metz (détail du feuillet 188, femme avec livre et chapelet).*Metz, vers 1300-1310.*Ces heures à l’usage de Metz ont été réalisées pour une femme actuellement non identifiée mais qui sans aucun doute faisait partie d’une des grandes lignées féodales possessionnées dans les limites du diocèse. Avec les motifs décoratifs se développant sur toutes les pages, l’artiste expose ici la gamme complète de son répertoire bien reconnaissable.*C'est le plus remarquable des nombreux manuscrits regroupés autour de la charte de Sainte-Glossinde
A sideless surcoat with gaping armholes, late 14th century
Sideless surcoat edged with ermine, c. 1460
A furred, embellished surcoat worn for ceremonial purposes, 1489-1499
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Related pages
References
- ↑ I. Marc Carlson. "Glossary of some medieval clothing terms". I. Marc Carlson/University of Tulsa. Archived from the original on December 28, 2016. Retrieved January 22, 2017.
- ↑ Joan Nunn,Fashion in costume, 1200-2000 (New Amsterdam Books, 2000), pp. 14, 23, 24, 28 ISBN 1-56663-279-X
- ↑ 3.0 3.1 3.2 3.3 3.4 Walter Clifford Meller, A Knight's Life in the Days of Chivalry (Kila, MT: Kessinger Pub., 2005), p. 77
- ↑ E. Farr, et al., The National History of England, Vol 1 (London; Glasgow: William Collins, Sons & Company, 1873), p. 386