Fustanella
Fustanella (Greek: φουστανέλλα; Albanian: [fustanellë/fustanella] Error: {{Lang}}: text has italic markup (help)) is a pleated, or folded, Greek skirt like a Scottish kilt. It is worn by men from different countries in Southeast Europe.
History
The fustanella originates from ancient Greek clothing like the chiton (or tunic) and the chitonium (or short military tunic).[2] An ancient Greek statue in Attica shows a stonecutter named Archedemus wearing a folded skirt like the fustanella.[3] The ancient Roman toga may have also impacted the development of the fustanella.[4]
In the Byzantine Empire, the fustanella was worn and called the podea (Greek: ποδέα).[5][6] It was commonly used in Greek lands as early as the 12th century AD.[1] In Byzantine art and music, the wearer of the podea was either a hero or a Greek warrior defending the empire's borders.[6][7] The fustanella was part of a military outfit consisting of bows, swords, battle-axes and armor (corselet or chain mail).[1][4] In the Ottoman Empire, the fustanella was worn by Greek guerillas like the klephts and the armatoloi.[8] In Albania, the fustanella is first mentioned in 1335 in a list of items taken from a sailor at the port of the Drin River.[9]
The Albanian fustanella is based on the Greek fustanella.[10] But the difference is in the number of pleats. The "Bridegroom's coat" is a Greek fustanella with two-hundred pleats that a bride would buy as a wedding gift for her groom.[11] The Albanian fustanella has around sixty pleats or usually a moderate amount of folds.[12]
Gallery
- Young man exomis Musei Capitolini MC892.jpg
Statue of a young man wearing a chiton; Roman copy of a Greek original (4th century BC).
- Bosniangraves bosniska gravar februari 2007 stecak stecci3.jpg
Stone depiction of an Aromanian (15th century AD).
- Lord Byron in Albanian Dress by Phillips, 1813.jpg
Lord Byron in Albanian Dress painted by Thomas Phillips (1813).
- Dupré - Warrior of Sellaida.jpg
Souliote Warrior painted by Louis Dupré (1820).
- A Souliot in Corfu Nikolos Pervolis, by Louis Dupré - 1827.jpg
A Souliot in Corfu Nikolos Pervolis painted by Louis Dupré (1827).
- Fustanella Greek Costume 1835.JPG
Greek general of the Royal Phalanx in full dress uniform (1835).
- Скотти - На карнавале в Венеции.jpg
At the Carnival in Venice painted by Mikhail Scotti (1839).
- Albanian fustanella - 1850 - 1900.jpg
A group of upper-class Albanians in typical dress (circa 1850–1900).
- Hamza Kazazi.jpg
Albanian leader Hamza Kazazi (circa 1858).
- Haag Carl - Greek Warrior - Google Art Project.jpg
Greek Warrior painted by Carl Haag (1861).
- Greek and Arnaut 1862 Fustanella.jpg
Russian picture of a Greek and an Albanian (1862).
- Jean-leon gerome arnaut fumant.jpg
Arnaut Smoking in Cairo, Egypt painted by Jean-Léon Gérôme (1865).
- Ilio voivoda.jpg
Ilyo Voyvoda, a Bulgarian Macedonian revolutionary (1867).
- Arnaut-in-Cairo.jpg
Albanian in Cairo by Jean-Léon Gérôme (circa 1880).
- Jean-Léon Gérôme – Albanian Officer (Officier Arnaoute), 1894.jpg
Albanian Officer painted by Jean-Léon Gérôme (1894).
- Spiridon louis.jpg
Spiridon Louis, Olympic marathon champion (1896).
- Vlach Shepherd.png
Vlach shepherd in traditional attire (early 1900s).
- BASA-1932K-1-426-5-Georgi Kasapcheto.jpg
Aromanian leader Gheorghe (Ioryi) Mucitani (early 1900s).
- Yannis Ramnalis-1.jpg
Ioannis Ramnalis, a Greek Macedonian revolutionary (after 1908).
- Greek Fustanella - Vervena, Arcadia, Greece.jpg
Old man wearing the fustanella in Arcadia, Greece (circa 1920s).
- Royal Guard of Albania.jpg
Royal Guard of Albania (1921).
- Sarakatsani Western Macedonia 1935.jpg
Sarakatsani, or Greek nomads, in Western Macedonia, Greece (1935).
- Sarakatsani Thrace 1938.jpg
Sarakatsani, or Greek nomads, in Thrace (1938).
- EVZONES GROUP.JPG
Changing of the guards at the Tomb of the Unknown Soldier (2005).
- Greek guard uniforms 1.jpg
Greek Presidential Guard officer, Athens (2007).
Fustanella Media
- Souliotis in Corfu.jpg
A Souliote warrior wearing fustanella, by Louis Dupré.
- Skódra - Lear Edward - 1851.jpg
Albanians in Shkodër depicted by Edward Lear, 4 October 1848.
- Richard Caton Woodville – Albanian Frontier Guards at Prayer, 1889.jpg
Albanian Frontier Guards at Prayer (1889) by Richard Caton Woodville Jr. Costume version that was also worn by Shkodran Albanian warriors in the Ottoman Mansure Army, established in 1826.
- Prayer in the House of the Arnaut Chief by Jean-Léon Gérôme.jpg
Prayer in the house of an Arnaut chief, by Jean-Léon Gérôme, 1857.
- A Greek from Ioannina, by Louis Dupré - 1827.jpg
A Greek from Ioannina by Louis Dupré (1827)
Albanian palikars in pursuit of an enemy (1813-4). Watercolour by Charles Robert Cockerell showing Souliot warriors wearing their traditional costume.
Richard Church, first commander of the 1st Regiment Greek Light Infantry of the British army, wearing the regimental uniform based on the Albanian traditional warrior costume and a dragoon helmet, 1813.
Related pages
References
Citations
- ↑ 1.0 1.1 1.2 Morgan 1942, pp. 132–133.
- ↑ Smithsonian Institution & Mouseio Benakē 1959, p. 8; Fox 1977, p. 56.
- ↑ Weller 1903, pp. 271–273.
- ↑ 4.0 4.1 Notopoulos 1964, p. 114.
- ↑ Notopoulos 1964, pp. 110, 122.
- ↑ 6.0 6.1 Kazhdan 1991, "Akritic Imagery", p. 47.
- ↑ Morgan 1942, pp. 133, 317–318, 333; Notopoulos 1964, pp. 110, 113.
- ↑ Ethniko Historiko Mouseio (Greece), Maria Lada-Minōtou, I. K. Mazarakēs Ainian, Diana Gangadē, and Historikē kai Ethnologikē Hetaireia tēs Hellados 1993, p. xxx; Notopoulos 1964, pp. 113–115; Smithsonian Institution & Mouseio Benakē 1959, p. 8.
- ↑ Gjergji 2004, p. 16.
- ↑ Rupert 1842, pp. 356–357.
- ↑ Smithsonian Institution & Mouseio Benakē 1959, p. 31; Fox 1977, p. 56.
- ↑ Konitza 1957, pp. 85–86.
- ↑ Elsie, Robert. "Ottoman Costumes 1873". albanianphotography.net.
Sources
- Ethniko Historiko Mouseio (Greece), Maria Lada-Minōtou, I. K. Mazarakēs Ainian, Diana Gangadē, and Historikē kai Ethnologikē Hetaireia tēs Hellados (1993). Greek Costumes: Collection of the National Historical Museum. Athens: Historical and Ethnological Society of Greece.
{{cite book}}: CS1 maint: multiple names: authors list (link) - Fox, Lilla Margaret (1977). Folk Costumes from Eastern Europe. London: Chatto & Windus (Random House). ISBN 0-7011-5092-0.
- Kazhdan, Alexander Petrovich, ed. (1991). The Oxford Dictionary of Byzantium. New York and Oxford: Oxford University Press. ISBN 0-19-504652-8.
- Konitza, Faik (1957). Albania: The Rock Garden of Southeastern Europe, and other Essays. Boston, MA: Vatra.
- Morgan, Charles Hill (1942). Corinth: The Byzantine Pottery. Vol. 11. Cambridge, MA: Published for the American School of Classical Studies at Athens, Harvard University Press. ISBN 9780876611111. OCLC 36957616.
- Lua error in Module:Citation/CS1/Identifiers at line 630: attempt to index field 'known_free_doi_registrants_t' (a nil value).
- Rupert, Cyprien (1842). "LE MONDE GRÉCO-SLAVE. LES ALBANAIS". Revue des Deux Mondes. 31 (3): 353–410.
- Smithsonian Institution; Mouseio Benakē (1959). Greek Costumes and Embroideries, from the Benaki Museum, Athens: An Exhibition Presented Under the Patronage of H.M. Queen Frederika of the Hellenes. Washington, DC: Smithsonian Institution.
- Lua error in Module:Citation/CS1/Identifiers at line 630: attempt to index field 'known_free_doi_registrants_t' (a nil value).
Further reading
- Skafidas, Michael (2009). "Fabricating Greekness: From Fustanella to the Glossy Page". In Paulicelli, Eugenia; Clark, Hazel (eds.). The Fabric of Cultures: Fashion, Identity, and Globalization. New York and Oxford: Taylor & Francis (Routledge). pp. 145–163. ISBN 978-0-415-77542-7.
- Snodgrass, Mary Ellen (2014). World Clothing and Fashion: An Encyclopedia of History, Culture, and Social Influence. London and New York: Routledge. ISBN 978-1-317-45167-9.
- Lua error in Module:Citation/CS1/Identifiers at line 630: attempt to index field 'known_free_doi_registrants_t' (a nil value).
- Welters, Lisa (1995). "Ethnicity in Greek Dress". In Eicher, Joanne (ed.). Dress and Ethnicity: Change across Space and Time. Oxford: Berg Publishers. pp. 53–77. ISBN 978-0-85496-879-4.